Through my ‘Ask Phro’ page, a few women have asked for a tutorial on effectively moisturising their hair. I always talk about using products in moderation but it’s clear to me that I need to physically show just how much product I place in my hair to get that healthy glow. I admit it is a fine line between that and greased up hair. I hope this tutorial is clear for everyone
This moisturising ‘how-to’, works for naturals as well as those who chemically treat their hair.
I’ll now dedicate the rest of this post to taking you though the steps of moisturising and sealing your hair.
Step ONE: Choose the right moisturiser
I’ve talked a lot about making sure you use the right moisturiser for your hair. Moisture works to build strength within the bonds of your hair. For the moisture to get to the hair bond, it needs to go through the hair shaft. A moisturiser should have ingredients with small enough particles to penetrate your hair shaft and go straight to strengthening the bond.
Ingredients such as mineral oil, lanolin, petroleum oil and petrolatum coat the hair as opposed to penetrating the hair shaft. The particles that make up these oils are larger than your hair cuticle. By coating your hair, these ingredients actually seal the dryness into your hair. This explains why your hair still feels dry even after you’ve ‘moisturised’ your hair. If you are dealing with excessively dry hair, I ask that you stop using moisturisers with these drying ingredients.
Carrier oils such as coconut oil, castor oil and olive oil have smaller particles that are able to penetrate your hair shaft. I sometimes double my coconut oil as a moisturiser. Amla Oil (which I love) is basically a combination of amla powder and oil. I’ve seen a brand that uses mineral oil in the mix. I’d advise that you keep amla oil as a pre-poo, use while hair is wet, add in with your deep conditioner or as a sealer.
I love love love S Curl No Drip as I find that it’s the most effective moisturiser. It has glycerine and water as its two main ingredients which are great at bringing true moisture to your hair.
Spritz Users – GREAT FOR NATURAL HAIR: For those with no S Curl No Drip, you can create your own spritz. Take a spray bottle and add 1/3 water, 1/3 glycerine and 1/3 carrier oil. Shake well before use.
Step TWO: Effective Moisture
Now that you’ve selected an effective moisturiser, it’s time to assess how much you feel your hair needs. Determine your hair type and how dry it is to get a basic understanding of how much moisture your hair may need.
I believe that the first step in curbing problems with your hair is to understand what you’re working with. I have 4a hair type meaning that I don’t require a lot of product in my hair. My hair is also not excessively dry, therefore I only moisturise and seal up to twice a week. You will need to adjust the effective moisturising process based on your your hair type and how dry it tends to get.
Here we go.
Separate your hair out into quarters and start detangling the hair in one section. Detangle by using fingers or a wide toothed comb from the ends of your hair to the root. When it’s sufficiently detangled, then add a small amount of moisturiser to the palm of your hand and glide it onto your hair from the roots to the ends. It’s done this way to avoid going against the hair cuticle therefore results in smoother hair. Work the moisturiser into your hair by continually gliding your hands from root to end until you are satisfied that you have enough moisture.
Your hair shouldn’t feel greasy or oily, it should feel nourished … the closest example I can give is when moisturising your skin. The most comfortable feeling is when your skin isn’t feeling too oily or too dry. For those who weave it up … think of the way your weave feels on a good day – it doesn’t leave gunk sticking to your face at all.
Continue this way until all the sections are finished.
Spritz Users – GREAT FOR NATURAL HAIR: For those that created the spritz, spray your moisture blend lightly, one or two pumps should be enough for each section. You don’t want your hair to get damp; you want it to feel nourished.
Step THREE: Sealing and its importance
Now you’ve moisturised your hair with a product that’s mainly made out of water. Water, even on your hair, will evaporate. To minimise the rate at which this moisture will evaporate into the atmosphere, you need to seal in the moisture you’ve just added to your hair with carrier oils.
Carrier oils that are organic are better than the synthetic ones because they have added benefits than just coating hair. For example, coconut oil has protein properties that mimic that of your hair so they add a strengthening component when used as a sealer.
You seal the same way that you moisturised. You add a small amount of oil to the palm of your hands (5 cent coin – 4a hair type, adjust accordingly) then you glide starting from your root to the tip of your hair. Do this until the four sections are finished.
If your scalp is excessively dry, ensure that you add your scalp moisturiser after the moisture and sealing process.
Step FOUR: Style as usual
I hope that this video … although it’s long, answers your ‘how to’ questions sufficiently.
Happy Hair Journey Ladies… #TeamHealthyHair